Kaika tei.

Founded in 1978 and now led by Takamichi Furuta, Kaikatei is a cornerstone of Gifu’s culinary scene, blending a deep respect for heritage with a penchant for modern experimentation. While the restaurant stays grounded in classical Chinese techniques, the kitchen is best known for its inventive detours, such as the signature cold rice noodles topped with a generous mound of caviar. The menu follows the seasons closely, pivoting from sweetfish spring rolls in the summer to tiger pufferfish roe tofu in the winter months. Expect high-concept dishes like abalone liver in oyster sauce and scallop-and-uni dumplings that prioritize ingredient purity over heavy seasoning. It’s a sophisticated, understated space where the focus remains entirely on the technical precision and surprising flavor profiles coming off the wok.