Casa do Ouvidor.

Housed in a grand 18th-century mansion above a jewelry store, Casa do Ouvidor has been a cornerstone of Ouro Preto’s dining scene since 1972. The second-floor dining room is defined by dark wood accents and large sash windows that offer prime people-watching over the cobblestone streets below. The kitchen specializes in unpretentious, heavy-hitting Minas Gerais classics like tutu à mineira, feijão tropeiro, and chicken with okra, all served in generous portions that reflect the region’s rural heritage. It is the kind of establishment that feels frozen in time, having hosted everyone from François Mitterrand to John Updike. While the atmosphere is refined, the experience remains grounded in tradition; be sure to save room for the spread of homemade compotes and local sweets.